Site Engineered

Engineered Installation Instructions

Installer/owner responsibility

Authentic Pine Floors strives to offer its customers high quality flooring. Please carefully read this installation guide to ensure satisfactory results.

• Carefully examine the flooring prior to installation for grade, color, finish and quality. If flooring is not acceptable, contact seller immediately and arrange for replacement. Authentic Pine Floors cannot accept responsibility for installation of flooring with visible defects.
• Prior to installation of any flooring, the installer must ensure that the jobsite and subfloor meet the requirements of Authentic Pine Floors installation instructions. Authentic Pine Floors is not responsible for flooring failure resulting from unsatisfactory jobsite and/or subfloor conditions.
• When purchasing flooring, add 5% to actual square footage needed, for cutting allowance.

Jobsite and pre-installation requirements

Wood flooring should be one of the last items installed for any new construction or remodel project. All work involving water or moisture should be completed before wood flooring installation.

Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-around living conditions for at least a week before installation of wood flooring. Room temperature of 60-70°F. and humidity range of 30-55% is recommended.

Store flooring at installation area for 24-72 hours before installation to allow flooring to adjust to room temperature and humidity. Do not store directly on concrete or near outside walls.

Wood flooring may not be acceptable for full bathroom installations because of moisture associated with such locations.

Installation Tools

• Tape Measure
• Hammer
• Pencil
• Tapping Block (trimmed piece of flooring OK)
• Chalkline
• Crow bar or pull bar
• Handsaw (power saw is also helpful)
• Wood or plastic spacers (1/4”)

Installation Requirements:

The quality of your flooring installation is dependent on the quality and preparation of the subfloor. Please read the following information carefully.

Acceptable subfloor types:

• Plywood (at least ½”)
• OSB (at least ¾”)
• Existing wood floor
• Underlayment grade particleboard (floating or glue-down only)
• Concrete slabs (floating or glue-down only)
• Resilient tile and sheet vinyl (floating or glue-down only)
• Ceramic tile (floating or glue-down only)

Subfloor must be:

• Structurally sound
• Clean: Thoroughly swept and free of all debris. If using glue-down or nail-down installation, subfloor must be free of wax, grease, paint, sealers, old adhesives and other substances.
• Level: Flat to 3/16” per 10’ radius.
• Dry and will remain dry: Subfloor must remain dry year-around. Moisture content of subfloor must not exceed 13% for most surfaces, must not exceed 2.5% for concrete. Can be tested with commercial moisture meter.

Wood sub floors

Must be dry and well secured. Nail or screw every 6” along joists to avoid squeaking. If not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with an underlayment patch.

Concrete

Must be fully cured (at least 60 days old) and should have minimum 6-mil. polyfilm between concrete and ground. Do not install on concrete unless you are sure it stays dry year around. All concrete should be tested for moisture. If moisture meter is unavailable, tape a 2’ x 2’ section of clear plastic to concrete slab, forming an airtight seal. If condensation or discoloration appears on plastic after 24-48 hours, moisture content is too high for wood flooring installation. Please contact a professional wood flooring installer to improve subfloor to acceptable level.

Radiant Heat

Use only floating installation over radiant heat. Subfloor should never exceed 85°F; check with manufacturers suggested guidelines for correct water temperature inside heating pipes. Switch off heating unit one or two days before flooring installation. Room temperature should not vary more than 15°F year- around. Follow floating installation instructions for below grade.

Preparing for installation

Door casings should be undercut or notched out so flooring will fit underneath. This can be done easily by placing a piece of flooring on the subfloor as a height guide for your saw.

Base moldings and door thresholds should be removed and replaced after flooring installation.

Since wood expands with any increase in moisture content, always leave at least a 1/4” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). This will be covered up once you reapply base moldings around the room. Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.

When laying flooring, stagger end joints from row to row by at least 18”. When cutting the last plank in a row to fit, you can use the cut-off end to begin the next row. If cut-off end is 8” or less, cut a new plank at a random length and use it to start next row. You will always begin each row from the same side of the room.

To pull planks together always use a tapping block and hammer. Tapping block should be used against the tongue only, never against the groove of the plank. When near a wall, you can use a crow or pull bar to close end joints. Take care not to damage edge of flooring.

Getting started

For the best appearance, wood flooring is often laid parallel to the longest wall. You should make the final decision which direction the planks will run based on the layout of the room and locations of entrances and windows. Authentic Pine Floors recommends you begin installation next to an outside wall, which is usually the straightest and best reference for establishing a straight working line.

Establish your working line by measuring an equal distance from the wall at both ends and snapping a chalkline. The distance you measure from the wall should be the width of a plank plus about 1/4” for expansion space. You may want to dry lay a few rows (no glue or nails) before starting installation to confirm your layout decision and working line.

Note: If outside wall is out of square, adjust working line to make straight for the rest of your installation. You’ll need to scribe cut the first row of planks to match the wall and make possible the straight working line.

Nail-down
See “Preparing for installation” and “Getting started”

Installing first and second rows

Lay flooring perpendicular to floor joists, unless subfloor is existing hardwood and/or has been strengthened to prevent sagging

Lay first plank inside chalk line with groove toward wall. Pre-drill ½” from grooved edge about 8” apart and secure planks with finish nails. Use nail punch to sink nails below surface and fill with wood filler. Repeat on tongue edge of plank.

Install entire first and second row in same manner. Always leave at least a 1/4” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.

Installing floor

Lay subsequent rows by using floor nailer to blind nail top inside edge of tongue at 45° angle. Nail each plank every 8” and within 2” of each end. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row and use tapping block to fit planks together.

It may be necessary to face nail in doorways or tight areas where the nailer can’t fit.
The last two rows will need to be face nailed in the same manner as the first two rows.

See “Finishing the job”

Glue-down

See “Preparing for installation” and “Getting started”

Spreading adhesive

Use only Authentic Pine Floors approved adhesives. Read adhesive instructions carefully for proper trowel size and adhesive set time.

Warning: Never use the “wet lay” or “loose lay” method of installing Engineered floors. This is when you install the flooring immediately after spreading adhesive. This method will trap moisture under the floor and cause the flooring to warp.

Always allow for adequate cross ventilation when working with flooring adhesive.

Read adhesive instructions for proper set time before beginning installation of flooring (set time is usually at least 30 minutes).

Starting at outside wall, spread as much adhesive as can be covered by flooring in 1hour (or as recommended by your adhesive instructions). Spread with trowel at a 45° angle.

Installing floor

Once adhesive has set, lay first plank inside chalk line with groove toward wall; and continue laying planks until adhesive is covered. Always check your working lines to be sure the floor is still straight. Use tapping block to fit planks together, but be careful not to let installed floor move on the wet adhesive while you are working.

When first section is finished, continue to spread adhesive and lay flooring section by section until installation is complete. Use a damp cloth to immediately remove any adhesive that gets on flooring surface. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row.

Always leave at least a 1/4” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.

Walk each section of flooring foot-by-foot within the adhesive working time to ensure a solid bond with the adhesive.

Flooring planks on perimeter of room may require weight on them until adhesive cures enough to hold them down.

Finishing the job

• Remove expansion spacers and reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the expansion space.
• Install any transition pieces that may be needed (reducer strips).
• Do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours (if glue- down).
• Dust mop or vacuum your floor to remove any dirt or debris.
  

Hi Teressa: The floor is awesome! It's so warm and rich looking. Just wanted to let you know that the floor is down and finished and wonderful! Thanks for all your help.